Wednesday, November 4, 2009

Avoca, Glendalough, Wicklow

Yet another lovely day.

Woke up and the sun was shining. I had a plan for today. I wanted to go to Avoca and Glendalough. Avoca was the town where Ballykissangel was set, and last time I was here I only had a limited time there, so I was hoping to get there and just take my time and have a good look around.
Point A on the map is Avoca, and the little green blob just to the North East of Avoca is Glendalough (Don't forget the Irish correct pronunciation - Glenda-lock!)

Little Gaby Garmin got me there with no worries at all. We are starting to work out our relationship now. I'm learning when to ignore her...! If the road she suggests looks like a country lane or back road, I just keep going and she just re-calculates...

The scenery continues to be spectacular..
Avoca was a little quiet when I arrived, so I headed straight for the pub (as you do!) to have my lunch. Those who have seen Ballykissangel may recognize the pub - Fitzgerald's - where Assumpta used to work.
I also took photos of the bridge and the Church...





I said a prayer for you all in the Church, and lit a candle for you. I especially said a prayer for my Mum who used to love Ballykiss. You didn't dare ring whilst it was on telly! You would get very short shift.

After lunch I moved on to "The Meeting of the waters", where two rivers meet.... There was a famous song about it, that people of my parents generation might remember...
There is not in the wide world a valley so sweet,
As the vale in whose bosom the bright waters meet;
Oh, the last rays of feeling and life must depart,
Ere the bloom of that valley shall fade from my heart



Using my little Gaby GPS I moved on to Glendalough, which means the "Valley of two lakes". It is a most beautiful place, just outside Dublin. It's in County Wicklow which is called the "Garden of Ireland". The Wicklow mountains are just outside Dublin, and provide the prefect backdrop to a truly beautiful place.
It is centred around the ruins of St Kevin's abbey, whic lie just above the lakes beneath. If you would like to read a little history about this place, click on the link below
http://www.sacred-destinations.com/ireland/glendalough





I was very lucky with the weather. While I was out walking, the weather was chilly but fine. The wind made my eyes water.... But as soon as I got back inside and was having my coffee, down she came.... It bucketed down! I was so lucky.

Decided to drive home through the Wicklow mountains - again beautiful scenery.... I stopped at the Wicklow Gap at the top of the mountains. I hoped out the car to take a photo, and I was nearly blown off the face of the earth....

It's been an interesting experience driving in Ireland. Our tour guide Bernard talked about how road rules are just guidelines!!! And I've seen it in practice so often... Speed limits mean nothing at all. The standard speed limit in built up areas is 50 km/h, but nobody takes any notice. And people just drive at the speed they think is OK. Double lines don't mean much at all either... I've had a few times when my heart was in my mouth with people overtaking. But also, they seem to be very patient, and they don't always rush to overtake either. It's a curious mixture.

Now, I've had my can of Fosters, and am about to have some tea - Irish stew and vegies... I'm very spoilt. How blessed am I to have been so looked after....

Tuesday, November 3, 2009

Back in Dublin

This post will be short and sweet today, mainly because there's not a lot to say about the drive back.

I felt sad leaving Lahnich, wondering if and when I would be back. This morning was grey and bleak as I gazed out of my breakfast room, but that didn't stop me from feeling an attachment to the place.

It's been a great few days and I feel very connected to the land around there. The Curtin family were so warm and welcoming that I really felt I belonged. Ah well, all good things must come to an end.

BTW - in case anyone has noticed the difference in spelling between Curtin (Irish) and Curtain (Australian).... When our ancestors migrated from Ireland, they were definitely Curtins. But we have a family legend that some dear old nun once said to someone in the family "That's not the way you spell Curtin - it should be Curtain" and that was the end of that! You don't argue with dear old nuns. It was in my grandfather's generation...

My Gaby Garmin GPS has now become my second best friend. She navigated beautifully today, and took me on the best and quickest way back to Dublin. No real backroads where only one car can pass. Just the best way, with very clear instructions. She also got me off the Motoroway before the toll was operational, then brought me back on the motorway when payment was no longer required.
In the map above you might be able to follow my route. I cut across from Lahinch (PointA) to Gort, then to Loughrea, then Athlone and then on the motorway to Dublin.

I stopped near Gort to view the ruins of an old abbey, Kilmcduagh




There are so many of these around Ireland. Not sure of the significance of this one. That's where you miss the bus commentary.....

My next stop was Loughrea (pronounced Lock Ray). It was a lovely little town and I found a nice bakery to have the usual sandwich. Here's a pic of the town of Loughrea...


Then I got onto the Motorway, and it was so boring after the beauty of the country roads. You could've been anywhere in the world. I foudn myself getting quite sleepy as you just cruised along. I was glad when Gaby Garmin told me to get off for a while, and I ended up at a lovely little pub called the Monastery Inn in a town called Clonnard.

So, that's it. I'm safely back in Dublin with Mary and Nicky, and only have 2 days left in Ireland. Tomorrow I hope to go down to Avoca (home of Ballykissangel) and Glendalough (pronounced Glenda - lock over here!)

Not sure how much Internet access I'll get in France, so I'm making the most of it here while I have it.

Monday, November 2, 2009

Crossing the Shannon, Tralee and Dingle

Big adventure today. I was so brave... I went on a boat! For those who know me well, this is a big challenge. I would have to be the worst sailor... but it made sense in order to save about 100km or so. In the map below, I crossed at point A, otherwise I would've had to go all the way around through Limerick to get into County Kerry.

The plan was to catch the 10am ferry (they go on the hour) but alas and alack after having dinner with the rellies last night, I was a little slow this morning and missed the ferry by about 10 minutes...

BTW - here's a pic of dinner with the Curtin's last night.

I went to Mass first, then Sean dropped off Nora to go in my car and we went up to Marie and Pat's for dinner. It was so lovely to be amongst family, and that's how it felt.

Anyway - back to the ferry trip...
So, what can you do when you see the ferry pulling out from the dock...?? Go to the toilet, buy a cup of coffee and a paper and sit down and relax. So, that's what I did. I met up with a couple who also just missed the ferry and they were from Germany and Switzerland, and they had been living in Galway for three weeks to learn English. She was telling me they stay with the host family and they must speak English for those 3 weeks. if you don't know the word, you do without... Could be tricky!

Anyway, the ferry takes about 20 minutes to get across then returns... Here are a few pics

I didn't want to sit in the car, so I hopped out on to the deck, which was fine, except it was freezing out in the middle of the Shannon, and it got quite rough in the middle. Lucky it was only a short trip!

Anyway, apart from nearly freezing to death, the trip was good and we drove straight off at Tarbert in Kerry. I had looked at the map previously and noted that my route went through Listowel, home of Tadgh Kenneally from the Sydney Swans. I looked out for him in the streets, but couldn't see him. Took a couple of pics of the town though...

There was hardly a soul around, but it was Sunday morning so nothing even stirs until about 12-ish. I was looking for a coffee shop in Listowel, but couldn't find one, so pressed on to Tralee.

I especially wanted to go to Tralee because it's the home town of my friend Mary Catlin. She has always talked about it, and I couldn't get this close and not go there. By this time it was one o'clock-ish so I went into a pub (the Imperial) and had my standard toasted ham and cheese sandwich. I also went to visit the Church - St John's- but was nearly mown down in the rush, because 12 noon Mass was just coming out. I guess they were all on their way to the Sunday session!!



Pictures of Tralee

It was still relatively early, so I thought I would press on to Dingle. In my previous bus tour twelve years ago, I remember being more impressed with Dingle than the Ring of Kerry (re-inforced by my recent experience!). So off I went again... faithfully led by Gaby Garmin GPS.

The drive was absolutely beautiful. As I've found so many times on this trip, the photos can't really capture the magnificence of the scenery. The weather changed a bit during this part of the trip, and made the driving a little hazardous, so once I hit Dingle, I decided it was time to turn around and go back the way I came. If I had more time, I would've loved to complete the whole Dingle Peninsula, but I was conscious I had to go on that boat again!

Here are some pics of the Dingle Peninsula.... (thought of Nadette from Newman who spent time in Dingle as part of her Medical pracs...)



The town of Dingle itself is very pretty. It's a harbour and obviously has lots of boats. As noted above the weather had changed a bit by the time I go there, so I didn't dilly-dally. Just had a quick cup of coffee and set the GPS for Tarbert again (the ferry port)

Here are some pics of Dingle....




I made it back for the 4.30pm crossing which was good, because the next one would've been 5.30pm and it's quite dark by then. The crossing back was uneventful - less rough, but just as cold.
We berthed back at Killimer just on 5, so I set Gaby Garmin for Lahinch. But she has a mind of her own sometimes.... she doesn't realise that the shortest way as the crow flies often means negotiating the back roads and lanes, and sure enough, that's where she took me. I was quite keen to get home by now, as it was almost dark, and the rain started again. But I followed her instructions and ended up on this lovely little road that took me God knows where, but I eventually ended up on the Lahinch Road. The last part of the journey was quite tricky driving, because the road winds a bit and it was dark, and of course it was raining.

I was so glad to get back into Lahinch that I drove straight to the Shamrock Inn - my favourite watering hole! I've become one of the family there now, and I know Declan, the boss, and Sean and Peter who served me every night. They all call me Moira too and ask me about my day and where I've been. No wonder I feel at home! I'll miss them as I head back to Dublin tomorrow.
I had to celebrate my last night in my patch with an Irish Coffee.... and it was beautiful. I don't know if I've had one of them since my Mum died in 2000.... But it was worth waiting for to have the genuine article.



Irish coffee at the Shamrock Inn

Well, that's it for Lahinch. Tomorrow I move on back to Dublin to stay with Mary and Nicky again. It's been just wonderful being here and meeting up with my family and feeling very much at home in my country. Hopefully I will come back here again soon, because it's place that I have grown to love.

Sunday, November 1, 2009

Meeting the relatives, Clare Coast

The day started as a beautiful sunny day, but I'm discovering that it can be deceptive.


Breakfast room and Rosie

I had organised to be picked up at 10am this morning, so Marie came to get me with her little girl, Ellen.
Ellen and Marie

They took me up to the family farm to meet Nora, the mother and Sean, Marie's brother. For those who may not have heard the story, this is the farm from which my Dad's ancestors migrated over 150 years ago. The Curtins still own the farm and are direct descendants of the same family as me. So the farmhouse is on the very spot where my Great (x5) Grandfather would've grown up. I had been there twice before and it's an amazing feeling to be surrounded by the spirit of your ancestors.
The welcome was very warm and gracious and I felt very much at home.


Curtins and Curtin farmhouse

Nora and Moira

We had a lovely morning tea/lunch and then Sean took me off around the farm to have a look. He breeds cows until they're about one year old then sells them to the farmers in the East of the country, because apparently the land is much better over there.
The bulls on the Curtin farm



The farmhouse is in a beautiful spot. You can see down to the Ocean, and you are surrounded by fields of green on every side.

Curtin farm view at Tullygarvan


Brickwork that is characteristic of County Clare

Then we took off to Marie's farm which is just down the road, and had another cup of coffee. She has just built her house and again she has a beautiful view, surrounded by fields of green.

This afternoon I decided to go for a drive along the Clare Coast heading North. The scenery again was just magical, with the road often tracking right beside the sea.
Here are a few pics..




One of the features of County Clare is The Burren which a wild rock landscape that appears very barren but is full of wildlife and protected flora.
Few more pics..




So now it's Saturday night and Halloween and I'm off to Holy Mass. Will pray for your immortal souls! Then I'm off to have dinner with the relatives....